I have heard of Lake Titicaca from my friend Heather in a casual conversation at work. She had visited Peru from in summer 2015 in order to work for women who were abused in Cusco. She had done some travellings on the side and Lake Titicaca was a one of them. The pictures looked fascinating and it was not far away from Cusco and I still that naive thought of waiting for my friend so I did not want to leave Cusco too far.
Lake Titicaca is known as the highest navigable lake (3812 m above sea level) in the world, and it has been inhabited by indigenous people for over 2000 years old. It is shared by Peru and Bolivia and it has been important resource for fish and navigation for both countries. I only visited the Peruvian side because Bolivia requires visa for American passport holders and I do not want any drama with the border issues.
There were two islands (and other islands made of weed) that I visited. I spent a night in Island Amantani, and a short day-trip to Island Taquile. I had the privilege to experience the near-authentic islander experience by staying with the islanders in their guest rooms of their own home. There were no phone reception, no power outlet, and the islanders take turns to cater the tourists. The tours made a good balance by provide an extra source of income for the islanders, yet not destroying or altering the life styles. It is my favorite type of tourism as it gives the tourists near-authentic experience and it does drive up the costs for the islands and turn it into a pure tourist-oriented destination such as Venice. The tours were organized and managed by island elders too so each family who participate the home stay program will benefit from this kind of sustainable tourism.
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The white cat who was awaiting us and it was a
good host for entertaining us while we were waiting |
I took a 30 Soles night bus from Cusco to Puno (the cheapest I could find) and it was a terrible experience. After 10 hours of overnight long haul bus ride, I arrived Puno at 7AM, where the driver picked us up and dropped us at the tourist office. After I got onto the sailboat on the dock, I was sent to the first part of the tour. The was a beautiful white car awaiting for us in the tourist office.
The tourist guide picked us up at the dock and the first stop called Islas los Uros. This was my least favourite part of the two day Lake Titicaca tour. It was a little bit over commercialized. The villagers were quick on selling us souvenirs (this is a part of the tourism of Peru, you have countless chances of buying souvenirs, whether they are authentic or not). However, the guide told us that he was born in Uros and it took him 5 years training to become a licensed tour guide. The reason why Uros was interesting because the islands were made of weed. It has a long history and they are not shying away from promoting their culture.
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| Isla Uros with my tourist guide and other villagers. |
After we departed Isla Uros, the boat was sailing northeast toward Isla Amantani, where I would be staying a night. There were many water fowls along the way and I liked the breeze that was blowing toward my face. I had to watch for the risk of getting sunburn though, because I was at the highest altitude I had been in my life and I did not know what to expect, and I was not diligent enough to put any sunscreen on myself.
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The calm and breezy boat ride around the reeds
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The boat finally arrived at dock of Isla Amantani near noon, about 4 hours after we got onto boat from Puno. It was a really, really nice boat ride. I made friend with Sebastian and his family (who is an Ecuadorian from Cuenca), Juan and Isabel (a couple from Mexico City). I like how meeting it is easy to chat and make friends with South Americans (Juan and Isabel even invited me to go to visit them in Mexico City). Within 15 minute of arrival, the representatives of the host family came meet us at the dock, and I followed them to drop down my luggage. The host family made us a very simple and homey lunch composed of rice, potatoes, and soup. I saw a map for Amantani and it is divided into 10 administrative zones. The island has been inhabited for more than 2000 years and the elders from the island are practicing a form of sustainable tourism, which allows money to be brought to the island, without changing too much of the traditional life styles of the villagers.
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| Here is a very positive aspect of what tourism can bring to the locals, as water at this elevation could get very cold at night |
After lunch, we were gathered again and the guide told us that the island was inhabited for more than 2000 years and it has been relying on agriculture. The island is divided into ten administrative zones. Tourism is carefully managed by the elders, and each participating host family will take turn to host tourists so that all household can benefits from this kind of tourism. I walked up to Pachamama. There were some vendors along the way to make a little bit more income, and needless to say, the view was breathtaking and there were a few arches near the peak.
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| A very homey meal with rice, potatoes, and FRESH egg |
Pachatata was about half an hour hike from the top of Pachamama. I was a bit tired but I might as well go there before it gets dark. There was a snack bar at Pachamama, and a ceremonial site which opens only once every year. I eventually walked back to the home of my host family and had a dinner. There is an option where there would a 'community gathering' event for the tourists where the tourists were dressed up and there would be music and dances at the community center. I felt it was superficial but I went there anyway. There was a bit of dancing and I wonder if the locals would enjoy it because it became such a routine for them to hang out with strangers that they only meet once in their lifetime. Oh well. I put my pancho and enjoyed my night without thinking too much.
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| Music to entertain us from the Quechua musicians. There are also beverages for sale for those who wants sugar or alcohol. |
The next morning I got up early enough to see the sunrise. It was one of the most beautiful things I saw and I was able to see the sun right at the front yard. I went for a walk at Pachamama again, then packed my stuff before having the breakfast with the host. I had a simple breakfast with the host. After that, I said good bye to the host family and Amantani Island.
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| The gate behind Pachatata, the highest point of Amantani Island. It is only opened for ceremony during January. |
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| The farm terrace on Amantani Island. |
The boat sailed south, and it reached Isla Taquile within an hour. Isla Taquile is the other inhabited island in the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. We walked to the highest Plaza de Armas as the tourist introduced us different kinds of plants that could be used medicine. We stayed there for about 45 minutes, took a few pictures, before we walked down to the area where we saw the sewing demonstration and had a lunch at on the cliff with a lake view.
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| The old gate on Isla Taquile |
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| The main plaza at Isla Taquile. It claims to be the highest plaza in the world (3950 meters above the sea level) |
After lunch the ship took another three hours to sail back to Puno and it was the end of my trip to Lake Titicaca. I had about 4 hours to roam around in Puno so I decided to walk around the market. I had some juice and nothing was really exciting and I met Sebastian and his family at the bus stop. We exchanged contact information. This time, I bought a CIVA bus back to Cusco. It was much more comfortable than the 30 soles bus and I was able to sleep. I walked to House Namaste from the bus station once the bus arrived Cusco.
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